The fire this time

UPDATE December 17: The two photos below are from Sunday’s San Diego Union-Tribune.

A Cal Fire DC-10 drops fire retardant on the Lilac Fire. Photo by Cal Fire.
A veterinarian feeds a horse that had been burned in the Lilac Fire. San Diego Union Tribune photo.

(This brief video, shot by the local newspaper [Village News], shows the small shopping area called River Village at the junction of Mission Road, on which I live, and State Route [SR] 76, about 2.5 miles south of my house. You can also hear the wind. This is where I get my pizza, my haircuts, and, sometimes, a burger from Jack-in-the-Box.)

(UPDATE December 11: I drove down to River Village this morning and it is open and active. Fire damage did not seem severe in the area, scorched trees and areas of ground, but no burned houses and much green about.)

Mid-afternoon Thursday, I received a phone call from the sheriff. It was an automated call, informing me that an evacuation order had been issued “for my area.” Earlier, I had received a similar call advising me of an evacuation warning. I had packed my car with various things two days before, because of the red flag alert and now, on this warm Thursday afternoon, I loaded up more stuff. (The line between preparedness and paranoia is a thin one.)

From her “teen angst” period

I added the only significant piece of original art I own, a self-portrait Julia did in high school for which she won a gold medal in the Boston Globe Scholastic Arts competition. Framed, it was somewhat big — 39 X 28.

(It’s an interesting exercise, determining what you want to save, and it’s also based on how much time you have to decide. What would you keep if you had a day’s notice, two hours notice, five minutes notice?)

I also had to include my companions, of course, the dog and cat, and, so doing, we headed off to Fallbrook High, only a mile or so north, to the shelter there. (Several local friends had offered to put me up, but the dog and cat complicate things and I wanted to avoid that.)

(The weather for the past few days had been more than “unusual,” it was kinda weird. It wasn’t hot. The temperature Thursday afternoon was mid-70s. It was so dry. Relative humidity was five percent, and the dew point was -1 degree. I had seen and experienced five percent humidity, but I had never seen such a low dew point, which is considered an accurate depiction of the amount of moisture in the air. Defined as “the temperature to which air must be cooled to reach saturation,” that meant the local temp would have to go below zero. Wasn’t going to happen.)

Even earlier on Thursday, near midday, I had noticed what appeared to be smoke on the horizon to the north. I figured it was from the LA fires. Dillon texted me, asking if I saw the smoke. I said I thought it was LA. He said, no, it’s Bonsall, a community just south of me. I turned around, to look south, and saw this.

Oooookay. This was a fire a few miles southeast of me, about to move along the San Luis Rey River valley, pushed fast to the southwest by Santa Ana winds. (This is called the “Lilac Fire.” For those who wonder how California names fires, they choose the place name closest to the fire’s origin. In this case, it started on Lilac Road in Bonsall.)

As I sat in the Fallbrook High parking lot later, watching fire and sheriff’s personnel gearing up, I expected to receive a notice soon that the evacuation order had been lifted. After maybe an hour, I noticed the trees. They were moving because of the wind, as my trees had been, but now they were being moved by a wind from the south, not the northeast as before. I recalculated, realizing that might bring the fire toward my home instead of away.

Fallbrook High could not accommodate pets, so I headed off to the Red Cross shelter in Escondido, about 30 miles south. I joined a long line of traffic leaving Fallbrook, on two-lane roads, so it took quite a while to reach the freeway, the 15. Finally on the freeway, at dusk, I drove south, passing the fire and seeing ranch houses (real ranch houses, not the “style”) ablaze. I was very worried, and in retrospect rightfully so, about the large number of horses in the area, especially at the San Luis Rey Downs training track.

Near San Luis Rey Downs. Village News photo.
Baxter and Boo

Arriving at the shelter, which was the East Valley Community Center, we were among the first arrivals. Most people who lived around me had likely gone to Fallbrook High. A Red Cross volunteer told me the rules were that people with animals would be in a separate area together with the animals. I was shown to the dance studio, where Humane Society employees and volunteers were setting up crates, etc. Baxter and Boo were the first non-human “residents.” The Humane Society was great. They provided crates, covers for the crates, litter boxes for cats, food for both (I had brought some). They identified who was in what crate and any special needs, etc.

Early on, a young woman approached me and asked how I was doing. She was a volunteer mental health worker. We chatted and I told her from where I had evacuated. A little while later, she came and showed me a notice on her phone that the fire had jumped SR 76 at the intersection of Mission Road. My fear had been proven correct. The now southerly winds had pushed the fire north. Below is a photo from the local paper of that junction during the fire. Anytime I head south, I go down Mission Road and take the 76 either east or west. That intersection is a very common scene to me, but never like this.

Village News photo.

At “dinner,” donations from local establishments (I enjoyed a Jersey Mike’s sub), I heard the same mental health worker say her activity at the shelter was as a volunteer and that she worked at Camp Pendleton. I asked, “At the hospital?” No, she said, she was embedded with a Marine unit, providing assistance for PTSD. One of the angels. I thought the shelter may have offered respite for her, too, that night.

Another reason I had chosen to go to the shelter was to learn from it. The need may arise again. There were fires around here in 2014 and big, damaging fires in the area in 2003 and 2007 before I moved here. I wanted to see what kinds of services and support were offered, what I should remember to bring, etc. One thing I realized was that you get a cot, but you should bring a “camp chair” and, while you get a blanket, you don’t necessarily get a pillow. Early in the evening, a well-dressed, middle-aged woman came up to me and chatted, just asking about where I was from, etc. Ended up she was president of the local Red Cross chapter and, several minutes later, she kindly offered me a pillow.

As the evening wore on, more people and pets arrived. At one point, going through the lobby, I saw a bus outside. From Fallbrook High. The shelter there had been evacuated. I began to hear conversations from people who had just arrived. One elderly couple (older than me) said they had had the proverbial five-minute notice from the police to leave. Another woman, who lived in Bonsall, not far from me, said on her phone that she watched embers approach her home, “swirling like tornadoes.” She expected her home, which she described as surrounded by live oaks, to be gone.

More and more dogs . . . and cats . . . arrived. One Red Cross worker told me, “We’ve got a comfort parrot on the way.” “And he’ll talk all night,” I said. “Yes,” she responded, “but in a separate room.”

Later, she reported that two pet tortoises were coming in. I didn’t see them and don’t know if they were “comfort” or not. Several people stated that their pets were “support” or “comfort” and had to stay with “Mommy” or “Daddy” and not in a crate. That led to some interesting encounters among pets during the night.

I tried to sleep, but failed. I overhead a woman say on her phone, “We’re essentially sleeping in a kennel.” Dogs like my Baxter, a chihuahua-terrier mix, are territorial, especially regarding other dogs, and he was not distinctive. Any new arrivals were greeted with much barking, as were any of the uncrated dogs that approached a crate. Cacophony does not quite describe it.

Plus there were those humans. You know, the type that don’t seem to notice they are not alone and speak with each other or on the phone as if they’re at home. Around midnight, a family arrived . . . loudly. It included a couple, their teenage daughter, and 98-year-old grandfather. I know that because they loudly stated the need to situate him comfortably. They also had a couple of dogs and “kitties.” Crates were no longer available, which brought about an angry . . . and loud . . . assertion from the father that such was unacceptable. He had one of those voices, you know, that “pierces.”

Settling in, somewhat, the family then began to squabble. Extensively . . . and loudly.

At times, things quieted down. But never for long. I doubt many minutes went by without a bark or several. Add to that an Olympic-level snorer. I expect the guy had a medical condition, as the “snore” seemed more a painful wheeze. But it went on . . . and on . . . and on, which set off the father previously mentioned, who was across the room from the snorer, and often yelled at the guy to stop. There was probably one person who slept that night and it was the snorer, though I can’t imagine it was comfortable.

It also did not help that the lights were on all night. I thought that might be good, for security reasons. Perhaps it was for the animals’ well-being. I asked one of the Humane Society reps about it. None of those reasons applied, she said. They had tried to shut them off, but were unfamiliar with the controls and only made them brighter when they tried. So they stayed on.

During the hours of just thinking, I thought about my house. I do not have any real emotional connection to it. It is not where my kids grew up, for example. For the most part, it fulfills a function for me. There are many things within it that I would hate to lose if fire destroyed them, but I had put other things I thought most valuable and important to me in the car and had them with me. I realized insurance could well provide me a house I liked better. So I spent some time designing such a house in my head. While losing the house would have caused immense logistical problems, I also felt pretty confident USAA would help in the interim and I might end up with a new home I preferred. Heck of a way to refinance, though.

Morning came, or at least close enough to morning to get off my cot. There were no showers at the shelter, but I was able to brush my teeth in the restroom. Breakfast, once again provided by local businesses, included pastries and coffee from Starbucks. Checking my local paper online, I saw that the fire, after jumping the highway, only went a little north before moving off to the west, across an area called Olive Hill.

Here’s a panoramic shot of the “kennel” from my cot in early morning.

After dawn, I put stuff back in the car and transferred the pets to it. Having signed in at the shelter the night before, I needed now to sign out. One can choose to sign out permanently or temporarily. If temporary, you are assured a spot on return. While I had every intention not to return, I chose temporary when I learned that I could call later to cancel.

Driving back to Fallbrook, I had to go further north, as my usual exit, onto SR 76, was closed. I then came back south, but encountered a roadblock on Mission Road a couple of miles north of my house. I was told that, with proof of residence, I would be permitted to go further, but I was warned there was another roadblock further on, at the road just before the one I needed to use, because of downed power lines. First, I had to get proof of residence. For reasons unknown to me now, I had listed my post office box on my license rather than my street address. I told this to the sheriff’s deputy and he said, “Well, that’s a problem.”

Heading away, I tried to think of a solution. Something like a utility bill would work, but paper with that was at my house. Then I thought of the post office. Mail sent to me at my residential address was put in my post office box, so USPS must have something that says that. Explaining my situation to the postmaster, the first thing she said was, “How’s your house?” And I realized that I didn’t know, which is what I told her. She looked up my record and the only other address on record was my old one in Waltham, which is where I lived when I ordered the PO box. She then decided simply to certify that I lived at my address. She wrote out something saying that, signed it, and put the Post Office stamp all over it. It wasn’t proof of residence, but it was pretty good evidence.

It got me through the roadblock. The first one. At the next one, I was able to take a left and proceed up into the hills above my house, on a backdoor route about four miles long. I live in a very hilly area, so roads are sinuous. I got to my access road and turned into it. I was still not sure what I wanted to see, but I was fundamentally not displeased to see the house safe and sound.

No power. It had been turned off Thursday night, SDGE said, for safety reasons, because of high winds. The date for restoration, according to their outage map, was Monday at 4 pm. I went to Starbucks, this time for lunch, and used its wi-fi to catch up on things. Then I went to the library to continue. Brought home a quarter-pounder meal for “dinner.” Sundown here is around 4:45 this time of year. I had not slept since waking at about 7 on Thursday morning, about 33 hours earlier. At 5, I was asleep and I slept very soundly until 3:30 am. It could, in fact, have been the dog that woke me up. I noticed he was somewhat restless and I realized I had not taken him out for nearly 12 hours. Took him out to do his business in the dead of night and returned to bed for another few hours.

Again, sat around waiting and hoping for power to return. Reading the Boston Globe online, I saw an Associated Press article about the fire datelined “FALLBROOK, Calif.” Hadn’t seen that before in the Globe. Bet next time, too, it will be for some calamity. The article said the fire was near the “small city of Fallbrook, known for its avocado groves and horse ranches.” Gives us a nice bucolic look and it’s pretty true. But the editor in me points out that Fallbrook is not a city. It is not a town, either. It calls itself a “village,” because it has no local government. It is an unincorporated area of San Diego County. Where I live, for example, is near the undefined border between Fallbrook and Bonsall, in an area also sometimes called Winterwarm (which I think is a bit much) and San Luis Rey Heights.

I had planned to watch the Navy-Army game at a VFW or American Legion post Saturday, but didn’t feel comfortable that day leaving Baxter and Boo at the house when there was the potential, still, for evacuation. What if, instead of having to leave immediately, I would not be permitted to return to the house? I texted Reid Oslin, a Navy-phile whom I knew would be watching, and he then kept me up to date on the score.

Mid-afternoon, in the midst of reading, I heard a little click and, looking up, saw lights on the DirecTV receiver. Power was back! I was able to catch the last 1:59 of the game, enough time to see Navy lose on a missed field goal. 🙁

By late morning Sunday, things seemed “normal,” but not entirely. As I waited to turn onto Mission Road to go to Las Brisas, my favorite taqueria, to pick up lunch (carnitas tacos) and dinner (pollo quesadilla), I saw two sheriff’s department vehicles coming up Mission Road from my left very fast. They then made power turns onto the road I was on and roared up the hill.

Returning with food, I took my backdoor route, but was stopped by a roadblock along the top of the hill. There appeared to have been a local evacuation (dozens of cars parked along what would normally be an empty road) and everyone was being turned around. I went back to the lower roadblock, hoping I could convince a deputy that I only needed to go a few hundred yards to reach my street. I explained my situation to a female deputy. “See the pudgy guy behind me?,” she said. “That’s my supervisor. He’s going to leave in a few minutes. When he does, I’ll wave you on through.” He left, she waved, and I got home.

I think I did learn a lot from this experience, or range of experiences. I saw people really hurt from what had happened. Kids crying, families mourning the loss of home or at least worried about that loss. Elderly, sometimes infirm, folks forced into situations that were uncomfortable and difficult. I hope I gained a sense of what situations like this can mean to some people and to go beyond the glibness of seeing my part in it, inconvenienced but unharmed, as an “adventure.”

I saw volunteers who went so far out of their way to be of help. Humane Society had people there throughout the night. Local businesses were generous in providing assistance. The level of cooperation among agencies fighting the fires was impressive. Camp Pendleton Marine helicopters, for example, joined California and local assets in combating the blaze.

Perhaps it’s a cliché, but maybe it does take a crisis for most people to see and do what matters most.

Antsy at DMZ

I’m not sure if something can be both timely and 26 years old, but this might be. In 1991, I spent three weeks or so in South Korea, participating in a joint naval exercise — US and Republic of Korea. A while back, I finally digitized video of my visit to Korea, which includes one of the first activities — a visit to the “Joint Security Area” at the DMZ. Below is a relatively short (for me) video, 7:31, of that part of my time there.

That introductory photo is me at the main gate of the Army base at Yongsan, in Seoul, where much of the “war gaming” aspect of the exercise took place.

The Navy contingent to which I was assigned, being the Navy of course, was “billeted” in the Seoul Hilton. That said, we were advised to eat only on base and at the hotel because there was an outbreak of cholera. I did get out and sightsee, beyond the DMZ, but that’s another, much longer :), video soon to come.

While I was in Korea, there was something of a kerfuffle in the former Soviet Union — an attempted coup by hard-liners against Boris Yeltsin. Tanks around the Parliament building, etc. That set off the North Koreans a bit, and there were reports of exchanges of gunfire along the DMZ. I thought, “Great, three weeks in Korea and now is when the war breaks out again.” Feelings something like that may be pretty common in Korea these days.

Night sky

Unreal, huh? Actually, it is unreal. It’s a composite of two images — the night sky and Borrego Badlands.

Last Friday, I was invited to join a small group going out to Font’s Point, a promontory in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, to view and photograph the night sky, which features the Milky Way at this time of year.

Leading the excursion were Kati and Ernie Cowan, both professional photographers, among other things (Ernie is president of the Anza-Borrego Foundation [ABF] as well). Also along was Sara Husby, recently named executive director of ABF. A Chicago native, this was Sara’s first trip to Font’s Point, which, along with the night sky, helps explain her enthusiastic response to the scene. 🙂

Below is a short (~2 minutes) video from the excursion. In it, you’ll see both of the scenes in the composite and, as you can tell from the scene highlighted in the video link, an exquisite image of the Milky Way.

 

Counting sheep

“Ewe lookin’ at me?”

(Sorry, sometimes I can’t help myself.) Over several years, in all the times I’d visited Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, I had never seen the sheep for which the park is partly named (“lamb” in Spanish is borrego). I first saw a few sheep in March, from afar, as I posted then. In June, on my way home from a board meeting, I saw a ewe atop a crest in the park. Again, from afar.

On Sunday, I joined volunteers helping in the 44th annual Sheep Count at the park. Several dozen volunteers went out to 20 different sites in the park for 2 1/2 days to find and count sheep to help monitor the park’s herd of this endangered subspecies – the Peninsular Desert Bighorn Sheep. Many hiked out each morning to their site, but others backpacked out and stayed at their remote site from Thursday night to Sunday midday. Some sites required hikes of up to six hours to reach them.

The three volunteers I joined had hiked out in the park, observing sheep, on both the Friday and Saturday before, for 10 hours each day. I was the dilettante, coming in for the final day, and a half-day at that.

Our location was Borrego Palm Canyon, 1st Grove. The set of palm trees in the center, rear, is the first of three palm groves in the canyon. There were sheep-counters at the second and third groves as well, hours further into the canyon and with no trail.

It took about 45 minutes to hike into the canyon. I was glad that I had a guide with me, because, for periods of time, it was unclear to me where the “trail” was. I had never been out here, though it is the most popular trail in the park, because it is so “easy.” I had a rather naive notion of what an “easy” trail would be like. I was lugging a camp chair, camera equipment (including a tripod), a few containers of water, and more. As you’ll see in the video (of course there’s a video), the trail was at times not flat. (According to my iPhone, for the day, I walked 4.2 miles, taking 12,119 steps, and climbed 13 floors. For some of you, that approaches a normal day. For me, it was very much an outlier. It was in the 80s when we went in around 6:30 am and about 105 coming out midday.)

I was told there was no guarantee that I would see any sheep. Several groups of volunteers indeed reported no sightings for the entire weekend. But I hit the jackpot. Not only 15-18 sheep, but some quite close.

The sheep didn’t start to appear until close to 8 am. The volunteers said they actually seemed to be late sleepers. We had seen hikers in the early morning draw a blank in terms of sheep sightings. Ewes, I was told, usually appeared first and rams followed. This screen capture profiles a solitary ewe near the top of the hillside, but there are several rams below her. I did not see the rams at the time and could discern them only when I watched the video. As you might expect, the sheep blend rather well into their environment.

In one instance, I could have been a YouTube hero . . . and a likely patient in the hospital, if I was lucky. Standing on the trail with another volunteer, we heard sounds from around a curve. My companion said, “Those are not human.” Suddenly, what were hoofsteps were quicker and louder and a ram charged around the corner of the trail, heading right at me. I can still see the headlights of that approaching train, but only in my mind’s eye. I lowered the video camera and jumped off the trail. The ram veered off as well.

Palm Canyon is much more “verdant” than in previous years, because of the above-average rainfall. Hard to imagine, but many of the boulders strewn about the canyon floor had been carried there by massive floods, from centuries, eons ago.

The sheep drink out of rivulets of water that come down from the palm grove (inside view, at left). First Grove contains a pool of water, but the sheep avoid the grove as it provides cover for potential predators, i.e., mountain lions. The sheep seem rather oblivious to people. They are used to them in this canyon, because of its popularity. And there is the thought they realize mountain lions avoid humans, so it is better to be out and about when humans are as well.

This video is less formal than the one I prepared for the Anza-Borrego Foundation. That one contains a bit more on what the counters do and the scientific aspect of the project. I hope you enjoy this view of the sheep and their world. (I recommend watching on your device with the biggest screen, not a phone.)

USMC amphibious demo

USS San Diego off Red Beach

Yesterday, Flag Day, I was privileged to be among those attending a training evolution and demonstration of the Marine Air-Ground Task Force (MAGTF) concept. It took place on “the beach” at Camp Pendleton.

The event was part of Camp Pendleton’s celebration this year of its 75th anniversary and members of the community were invited to watch and learn more about the Marines and the base. I was there as a member of the local council of the Navy League, along with members of other councils.

In simple terms, MAGTF involves Navy and Marine forces — air, ground, and sea — in a coordinated amphibious operation. Navy ships bring materiel and personnel to the area, land Marines and their equipment and supplies, supported by Navy and Marine aircraft.

Medium howitzer

The event was much less whiz-bang than similar demonstrations at the annual airshow (a video of that portion of the 2014 airshow is at the end of this post), but the scale and kinds of equipment were quite different. The Camp Pendleton evolution involved Navy ships, amphibious craft, and an actual amphibious landing on an awesome stretch of sand and waves.

Here’s a video (7:00) of highlights.

The presentation also included briefings on the base itself. Camp Pendleton covers more than 125,000 acres, or just over 195 square miles. Its coastline (17.5 miles) is about the same length as New Hampshire’s. The base goes 10+ miles inland. Because of its size and location, Camp Pendleton is the only military facility in the US that allows for large-scale operations combining air, sea, and ground forces. Jet aircraft, for example, are nearly unrestricted in their operations over this area.

There are about 40,000 active duty Marines, and some Navy sailors, at Camp Pendleton on any given day. Combining family members and civilian employees, the base population on a workday is about 80,000. (Also using the base commissary, exchange, etc., are many of the approximately 80,000 retired military who live within a 50-mile radius. Including me.)

There are signs on I-5, which goes north-south up the coastline here, that say “Camp Pendleton — Preserving California’s precious resources.” That, of course, is not the purpose of Camp Pendleton, but it is the result in many cases. Without Camp Pendleton, there would be little open space between LA and San Diego. As one approaches the end of Camp Pendleton in either direction on I-5, the visual demarcation between it and San Clemente to the north or Oceanside to the south is dramatic and striking.

Just looking at the beach in the video, you can see that, with the exception of amphibious vehicles :), it’s pretty pristine. No condos lining the bluffs, etc. Camp Pendleton’s mix of beaches, bluffs, mesas, canyons, and mountains, along with the only free-flowing river in Southern California (Santa Margarita), allows one to see what this region would look like, absent several million people.

Pacific pocket mouse

That ecosystem includes more than 1,000 species of plants, fish, and animals. Eighteen of those species are endangered and there are several that exist only on the base. The colonel who headed up the event said the road we used to walk to the observation bluff could not be improved, because it would disturb the habitat of the Pacific pocket mouse, which is endangered. Indeed, the Marines were not allowed to remove a large piece of twisted metal from the area because the mice had made it part of their habitat.

Below is the video of the MAGTF display at the 2014 airshow at Marines Corps Air Station, Miramar. (Years ago, when it was a Naval Air Station, it was the location for Top Gun, the aviation training program as well as the movie.) Action starts at the 1:09 mark.

 

Asilomar – awesome nature, historic architecture

It’s a somewhat contrived name, combining two Spanish words, to represent “refuge by the sea.” Asilomar (a-SIL-o-mar), in reality, is also a beautiful, historic place on the Monterey Peninsula where I was fortunate to spend a few days in mid-April.

I attended a conference sponsored by California State Parks, held at the Asilomar State Beach and Conference Grounds, which is a state parks facility, in Pacific Grove, just south of Monterey. People attending represented the State Parks office and those non-profit associations that are the official partners of state parks. As vice president of the board of the Anza-Borrego Foundation (ABF), partner of the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, I was among them. Whoda thunk it? (I was only there because ABF did not then have an executive director in place . . . and I had the time.)

But it’s the place, not the conference, on which I want to focus here. And by place, I refer both to the grounds and buildings of the Conference Center as well as the State Beach. The coastline of and sea around the Monterey Peninsula are as awesome as you would expect, but you may be unfamiliar with Asilomar’s historic element.

Julia Morgan

Familiar with the name Julia Morgan? Or American Craftsman style of architecture? Or the Arts and Crafts Movement? Asilomar is a blend of the three. Julia Morgan is well known in California as one of the foremost architects of the first half of the 20th Century. I urge you to do more research online about her and her work. Her name is familiar to me, as she worked on the design of several buildings/structures on the UC Berkeley campus, where I worked for a dozen years, and in the Berkeley/Oakland area.

A Berkeley graduate (1894) in engineering, Morgan became the first woman to become a licensed architect in California in 1904. Through her work at Berkeley, Morgan became known to Phoebe Apperson Hearst, principal patron of the Berkeley campus. Hearst was also a patron of the YWCA, which was seeking land for a campground. With Hearst’s assistance, the YWCA received a donation of 30 acres in Pacific Grove in 1913. Morgan was asked by Hearst to design the camp grounds and buildings.

Morgan used a style blending elements of the Arts and Crafts Movement and American Craftsman style, emphasizing nature, the qualities of the land, and local materials. As you’ll see in the video at the end (13:38), the buildings are generally strongly horizontal, with wood and stone predominating.

There are lots of windows and interiors feature exposed beams instead of ceilings. Just about every original building features a large stone fireplace, not only for heat but as a place to gather.

Three original main buildings surround a campus circle. They are Crocker Dining Hall, representing sustenance; Hearst Hall, offering a place for social activities; and Dodge Chapel, for spiritual uplift. Other buildings provided for recreation and served as residences for campers and counselors. The state has since expanded the facilities to enable more conference attendees. The newer buildings are in similar style and rooms are somewhat spare – no telephones or televisions. There is wi-fi.

Morgan worked on Asilomar for 15 years, finishing in 1928. She had many more projects going on and to do. In all, she designed more than 700 buildings in California. In 1919, Phoebe Apperson Hearst’s son, Willam Randolph Hearst, selected Morgan to do up a little thing called La Cuesta Encantada, better known now as Hearst Castle. She designed and worked on that project for nearly 30 years.

The State of California purchased the YWCA property in 1956, less than a year before Morgan’s death. In 1987, Asilomar was designated a National Historic Landmark for its architecture and in the context of Morgan’s career. Just three years ago, in 2014, the American Institute of Architects awarded its Gold Medal to Julia Morgan, the first woman to be so honored . . . belatedly.

The environment in which this historic facility is located is breath-taking. That’s in the video below – not just visually, but aurally. The views are spectacular and the sound is a roar. You’ll see shorebirds, sand dunes, plant life (somewhat surprisingly similar to the desert) and crashing waves that seem always turned up to 11 in volume. (Weather conditions changed over the three days I was there, and the video is not linear in time. So you’ll see different conditions at different times.)

Getting to and from Asilomar wasn’t easy, but it brought me to a part of California to which I had never been – the western side of the Central Valley, west of Bakersfield. I still get surprised by California’s scale and the size of its emptiness, its wildness. This map gives some geographical context and the highlighted area (approximate) is offered in more detail.

Not that there’s much to detail. You’ll see how open and “empty” this expanse is. What would “normally” take about seven hours driving (440 miles each way, just about the same as Boston-Washington, DC) took me nine hours in each direction, because of LA traffic.

Again, though, some amazing views, surprising roadside installations, and the site of the last scene of a 1950s movie icon.

It’s California.

 

More at Anza-Borrego

I’ve spent more time than usual out in the desert, enjoying a wildflower bloom that is the best in more than a decade and, in a small way, helping out with serving the large numbers of visitors. I’ve posted earlier about it and have some more to share.

The weekend of April 1, I was in Borrego Springs for an Anza-Borrego Foundation board meeting and to celebrate ABF’s 50th anniversary. I arrived on March 31 and stayed the night, having my first opportunity to see the dark sky without a full moon to “interfere.” This is a shot from around 9 pm. I hope to return in the summer when the Milky Way is visible.

The morning of April 1, ABF President Ernie Cowan – noted birder, outdoorsman, photographer, and writer – took me out to Plum Canyon for flowers and to Tamarisk Grove to see a nocturnal bird of prey, which was still up but a bit secluded. Here’s a brief (< 3 minutes) video of the morning.

Holy war

Okay, hedline’s a bit overstated. Local alumni from BC and Notre Dame got together last Saturday to shoot paintballs at each other. What better place than Camp Pendleton?

The six gents on the left were the Eagles contingent and the equal number (counting a young woman) on the right were the Domers.

As no one had had this experience before, we chose “paintball lite,” aimed at kids and adult beginners. The guns are smaller, lighter, less powerful; the paintballs themselves smaller; the result . . . no bruises. Except maybe to pride. Yes, we felt somewhat sheepish seeing so many others, including kids, go with the full-bore paintball. Maybe next time.

Here’s a short (<4 minutes) video of some of the action.

You may notice that the ND contingent was a little on the young side. We had not been aware they had promoted the event among those in their “young alumni” section. With the exception of a graduate of 2009, the others were all 2013 or 2014. That’s like . . . yesterday! BC’s contingent featured mostly guys in their late 30s and one ancient alum.

I survived. And flourished at the post-event get-together in Oceanside.

These kids from Notre Dame are alright! We’re friends until September 16, when the Eagles and Fighting Irish meet again on the gridiron in Chestnut Hill.

Flowergeddon and borregos

Desert hillsides covered with yellow flowers

Spent a couple of days recently again out in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, leading a group of local BC alumni on a tour March 18 and later, on Friday, to help out serving all the visitors coming to the Park for the best wildflower blooms this century – a “flowergeddon.”

This is a brief video of some of the highlights of the tour with BC alumni.

We spent the morning traipsing about and got together for lunch at a Borrego Springs roadhouse.

Seated, l-r: Bill McDonald ’68, Mike Scott, Mary Ann Scott ’75, Lissa Tsu ’00, Brian Tsu ’00; standing, l-r: Mary Berube ’80, Ray Berube ’78, Jania Andreotti ’85, Pat Ahern ’11, Meryl Evangelista.

Returning last week to help out, I was chagrined when a visitor arrived at my wildflower info table and said he was already fully satisfied with his visit, because he had seen bighorn sheep. Hmmmph! In all the times I had been out to the desert, I had not seen the sheep for whom the Park is partially named (borrego in Spanish means lamb). He mentioned he had seen them while he was driving down the Montezuma grade, a dramatic ride (to which Larry Kenah, Ed Hattauer, and others can attest) from 4,000-feet elevation to the desert floor, switchback road all the way.

A hour or so later, I was driving up the Montezuma grad heading home when I noticed a number of cars pulled to the side of the road and people looking up into the hillside. Borrego? I joined them and, for my first time, saw the bighorn sheep. I immediately regretted that I had not brought my Nikon camera or Sony camcorder to capture the images. What you see is what my iPhone caught, grainy because of the sheep’s distance from me. When I get better images, I will provide.

This one sheep was captured taking a pose majestically on a rock. Two others later joined the first and, rather than try for a photo I knew would also be blurry, I just enjoyed their perambling.

To my left, I saw another borrego and then a companion to the first. They’re on the ridgeline.

Made the day!

Afternoon at the oasis

California fan palms at 17 Palms Oasis

I had the pleasure Saturday to visit an oasis in the badlands of Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. Anza-Borrego Foundation sponsored a tour for members of the ABF’s Century Circle, major donors to the foundation, and I was able to join the tour.

In a caravan of four-wheel-drive vehicles, the two dozen+ participants first visited 17 Palms Oasis, 15-20 miles east of “downtown” Borrego Springs, near the eastern edge of the park. This is a naturally occurring collection of California fan palms, the only palm tree native to the western United States. The name is based on the number of palm trees present, though that number has fluctuated through the years. At least a couple of people counted 18 palms. Other oases in the park are called 5 Palms and Una Palma.

The palms exist there because conditions permit it. They are close to a wash, so water from occasional and sometimes heavy rains can nourish them. Water as well exists in aquifers beneath them.

The “desert mailbox” at 17 Palms

These oases are the proverbial water holes that sustain animal life and, in years and millenia past, humans. Attracting travelers, the oasis also was a variant of a post office. A “desert mailbox” has been located at 17 Palms since the late 1800s. People could leave letters and messages in it, requesting that someone passing through carry it to its destination or to a closer “desert mailbox.” The current such mailbox, wedged between two palms, holds journals in which visitors to the oasis can leave comments and thoughts.

Later, we moved on to Vista del Malpais. “Mailpais” is Spanish for “badland.” From this vantage point, one can look out for miles over the badlands. Here are two such views.

Of course, even near the badlands, there can be vegetation. These ocotillos were at Vista del Malpais.

There are expectations for a great desert wildflower season in the spring. Crossing our fingers!